Speycaster.co.uk,Speycasting Lessons.

When evaluating how to cast long and short lines some simple laws of physics must be adhered to.

“Fly-casting, whether it be with single or double handed rods, Speycasting or Over-head, is all about controlling the rods potential energy and releasing this stored energy into the fly-line at exactly the right time”.

I have heard it said to me so many times, “you could cast the line with an old broom handle”.
Up to a point this statement could be a true, as long as the line I was casting was not more than around 25 feet long. More than this and I would need the broom handle to flex, creating a “simple lever machine” which would then enable me to release its “potential energy” into the line in a slower more controlled manner; But why?

Well like any other lever it must be controlled. A wee while back, this same simple method was exploited to good effect by wee guy called David, much to the determent of a big guy called Goliath. It’s true to say that his was a single projectile and not a long fly-line, but nevertheless, analogies can be made, especially if thinking about casting a heavy lure on a spinning rod, which in itself requires much the same technique as Spey-casting a shooting head line.

Up to around 25 feet, I could cast a line without a broom handle. If the line is controlled properly I could quite happily cast this length using just my arm, as long as my hand, which is simulating the rod tip, follows a straight horizontal path prior to the energy being released at the end of the forward stroke.

This “Loading Move” is the most fundamentally important part of fly-casting.
So what if my stiff broom handle was longer, would that help me cast a longer line? Well, no! The reason being – I can still only move the tip of the broom through a straight path for a relatively short distance. To control a long line, as I will explain*, I need the tip of the rod to follow a straight path over a greater distance. See Speycasting Section

Anyone interested in the mechanics of fly-casting should try the following –
Think of you hand as being the rod tip –

1. Cast 7 feet of line using just your hand – you will find you need only a very small movement of your wrist and forearm to create a nice tight loop.

2. *Cast 15 feet of line with only your hand – you will find that your elbow naturally lifts, you need more/longer movement of you hand to create a tight loop. Remembering that your hand is simulating the movement of the rod tip.

3. Now try going back to the small movement [no 1], no lift of the elbow, you will find that this alone is now not enough to control what is now double the length of line.

What you have just done is – simulated, on a small scale, the movement of the rod tip during the cast. Three points to remember are –

1. The shorter the line - the less distance the tip needs to move.

2. The longer the line – the greater the distance the tip needs to move.

3. **Most important of all – with a longer line, you need to move your elbow. In effect, this is a lever. Because the line is now longer, a mechanical devise is now needed to control it during the back and forward cast.

Any movement of the hands should be thought of as compressing, or loading the rod, releasing the energy [stopping with both hands simultaneously] only after it has reached full compression. More compression in the rod = greater escape velocity [line speed]. The above applies to all methods of fly-casting.

With the popularity of Speycasting growing world wide, the call for standardizing equipment is understandable, although different casting techniques make this challenging to say the least.

There are many double-handed rods currently available to choose from on today’s markets; some would say too much! Made from carbon fibre, these rods, irrespective of the country of manufacture, are superior to those manufactured in the past. To all intent and purpose, they are becoming standardized, with each company following similar blueprints.

So, assuming they use similar blueprints, along with similar material, what makes them different? Other than finish, I feel, not too much. Having tried what are considered to be the best, along with the worst, I would conclude by saying, there’s not much of a gulf between them.

The only real difference now, is the action of the rod. Some are said to have a fast action, whilst others are seen to be slower. And it is this difference that causes much confusion within the industry.

A fast rod is generally stiffer, less flexible, than its slow counterpart. To create the same level of “compression”/”flex” as the slow rod, the fast one requires - More effort, or a Heavier load.
If compressed to the same level, the fast, stiff rod will hold more potential energy.

But because this energy is released faster, it means that this energy is transmitted to the projectile [the line], at a faster rate, creating more initial speed, faster escape velocity, which is fine as long as the projectile in question is both short and heavy. With regard to Speycasting, such rods function best when matched with a relatively short line, i.e. – somewhere between three and four times its length. This compliments the manner by which the rod releases its energy into the line [fast].

If however the line is a different shape, i.e. – longer, say between five and six times the length of the rod, then we know that we now need the tip of the rod to follow a straight path over a greater distance [see above]. Difference in technique is determined by the shape and weight of the projectile.

Another analogy can be -

If we had a stone and a javelin, both weighing 150g, and we wanted to through them into a pond thirty yards away, would we use a different technique? Of course we would! Although they weigh the same, their shape will have a big bearing on how we throw them.

The Javelin, because of its shape requires a longer launch-pad. We need to get it moving before we let it go, hence the need for a run-up. The longer the object, the longer the launch facility.
The stone on the other hand, can be thrown the same distance with no run-up. Because of its shape and mass, thirty yards would be easy. The throwing hand would only travel half the distance, but importantly, twice the speed, than that of the Javelin.

In both cases the arm, along with the body, is being used as a “simple lever machine”, albeit working in a slightly different manner.

Speycasting a short and long belly line is no different.
The short belly requires a quick injection of speed over a short launching platform,
With the long belly line requiring a longer launch-pad as well as a slower, “second gear” approach to the application of power, or loading move.

So when casting a long belly line, the action of the rod should be softer than that needed to cast a short head line. Knowing the above, it sounds like there should be no problem with producing standardized kit. Don’t you believe it!!

The flexible nature of the rod enables us, individually, to control how the energy is transmitted to the line. But ultimately it is us, and our individual casting techniques that determine how that rod unloads, and ultimately, how the stored/potential energy is released into the line.
What might one person’s technique, might not suit another.

I have often seen even experienced casters being caught out by this. Applying their own particular technique to a rod and line, which to get the best out of, requires a different technique. Their subsequent views regarding that particular equipment then leads to misleading information.

To recap – We have:

Fast Rods [Stiff butt Tip Action].
Slow Rods [Through Action, flex right to the bottom handle].
Medium Rods [Flex to the upper handle].

Irrespective of their differing actions, the basic principals remain the same.
The tip must remain in a straight line between the rods being fully compressed and the time of unloading. In the case of the fast rod, this is a much shorter launching platform than that required by that of the soft rod. In the case of the medium rod it is somewhere in-between.
We have all heard it said many times – “This rod is no good for Speycasting”, “but that rod is fantastic”.

What should be said is – “This rod is no good my Speycasting technique”, “where as this one is”.

But it is not only a question of the rod. The line, both weight and length also plays a big part in the overall picture. But the main ingredient is – Technique. The key to good, consistent, effortless Speycasting, is finding the rod/line set up that suits your own personal technique. The only other solution is to become competent with all actions/types of rod and line. Be warned, this may take some time!

So, when it comes to equipment for Speycasting.

Are there rods that are better than others? - There are rods to suit every different casting technique/style out there, most of which, irrespective of the price tag are now very good.
Are there lines that are better than others? – There are more good lines than ever, and choice has never been better. Just remember, the longer the head length, generally, the more difficult it is to control/cast. Stay within your limits. I personally like a line with a head length of around five times the length of the rod I use. This along with a through action rod compliments my natural technique. 15 foot rod = 75foot line. Or, in windy conditions 65foot line. Reason for this is - The shorter the line, the less distance between the rod tip and the water, therefore creating a shallow/flatter, more dynamic D Loop which will cut under the wind. There is always less wind the nearer you are to the water surface.

A line with a head length more than five times that of the rod, I must say I find toil. Remember the longer the line, the longer the launch facility, which means more effort.
Fishing/Casting should be enjoyed and bring pleasure, not pain! However, long heavy lines have their uses if you can handle them. If you have a large river and need to through a heavy tube to the other side, then the 18 feet rod and long belly line can be very effective. Also, control of the fly [Mending] using a long belly line is easier.

Short head lines 40 – 55 feet - Generally they are easier to handle and do not require the same level of control, almost like throwing a single projectile. Some would say they are good for beginners, this I would say is true but if used on a rod with too fast an action, it also encourages the development of a very “Short Stroke” technique. I find that people who have developed this “Short Stroke” find it very difficult to adapt to fishing with a longer line. If you wish to develop your casting, I would suggest moving from the short to a mid belly line. If on the other hand you are happy fishing with this, great! The main draw back is management of the running line when casting long distance. The short head line is very good in wind and restricted areas with overhanging trees or high banks.

Is one technique better than another? Horses for Courses spring to mind! I like to try lots of different rods with lots of different lines each change requiring a slight tweak to the technique. Only by doing this will the angler become familiar and competent with all types of tackle.

Technique – Single Spey

Keep the lift slow.

Keep tension between the tip of the rod and the tail of the line, the grip of the line on the water is the controlling factor to compressing/loading the rod, both in the back/sweep and forward cast. Anything compromising this ultimately compromises the cast.

Lines

Short head/belly = Short Stroke
Long head/belly = Long Stroke

Rods

Fast/Tip Action = Short Stroke
Slow/Trough = Long Stroke

*Spey Line Standards*
	Shooting Head Head length 30'-50' measured at 40'	Short Belly Head length 50'-60' measured at 55'	Medium Belly Head length 60'-70' measured at 65'	Long Belly Head length 70-100 measured at 80'
LineWeight	grains/grams	grains/grams	grains/grams	grains/grams
6	250/16.2	420/27.3	460/29.9	600/39
7	300/19.5	470/30.5	510/33.1	650/42.2
8	360/23.4	530/34.4	570/37	710/46.1
9	430/27.9	600/39	640/41.6	780/50.6
10	510/33.1	680/44.2	720/46.8	860/55.8
11	600/39	770/50	810/52.6	950/61.7
12	700/45.5	870/56.5	910/59.1	1050/68.2
Rods	Fast Rod	Med/fast rod	Medium Rod	Through Action longer rods

Above are the Spey Line Standards which will be followed by most manufacturers by 2007.

If we use the 10 weight line as an example we find a difference of 22 grams between the shooting head and long belly lines. Casters with the ability adapt their technique, using the same rod; will comfortably cast each line, from the shooting head to the long belly, without any problem, by adapting their technique to both length and weight changes.

If the same technique is applied, using the same rod to all four lines, only one will work!!
It is for these reasons that I would say, before buying a new rod, I would suggest you have your casting style looked at by a professional. This will equate to money very well spent. One word of caution, if you wish to learn to cast a long belly line, ask the professional if they can actually do it, give them your rod and watch them. If they cannot, then go to someone who can.

During the forward cast, don’t think about throwing the line with your upper hand; the line, and its grip on the water are your friend, the medium by which you compress the rod, David’s stone was not released until he stopped his forward movement, any forward impetus, until the moment of release, should be thought of as loading the rod. Only when the rod has reached the point at which you need to release its stored energy should you stop with both hands.